9 signs you’re too old to be a backpacker

Lets be real, there is no magic age at which you officially become too old for backpacking. The lure of cheap stays and new friends will stay with you well into middle age and beyond, but at some point you will come to realise that it might be time to retire your dusty backpack for a lightweight wheelie case.

You could be 20 when it happens. You could be 65. There are entire families who are still backpacking, so it could be a while. But there are warning signs, and these are the ten big ones to watch for. As soon as you notice these, I dare you to upgrade yourself at least to a private room.


Hostels are noisy places. That’s just a fact of traveling. Often set on noisy streets, right in the middle of the party zone of whatever major city you happen to be in. Your dorm mates will probably be the kind who stay up late, wandering in at some ungodly hour of the morning. Or on the flip side, they’ll be the ones rustling endless plastic bags at 5am. When sleeping through the night becomes your biggest priority, it might be time to give up the cheap sleeps.


I know, I know. I said that there was no age at which you become officially too old for this crap. Still, when you’re swapping life stories and the best they’ve got is “I just finished my uni entrance exams” it might be time to consider moving on. I find it difficult to maintain conversations with kids who think Nirvana is retro.



If you do it right, backpacking is as much about the people you meet as it is about the places you explore. However, if you’re like me and find yourself getting more and more introverted as you get older the constant swapping of stories with new people is plain exhausting. Now that I have quit hostels and traded dorm beds for guest houses and luxury hotels I find myself just wanting to be left alone to enjoy my surroundings in peace.


There are varying degrees of dread when it comes to the overnight bus ride. When I was 20 and broke, I faced it with disdain and the knowledge that one day I wouldn’t have to do it. Now that I’m in my 30s and can afford the alternative, I face them with an feeling of actual death. I would rather die than take an overnight anything, but especially a bus. The heat, the clanking, the squishiness, the smells. No thanks.


Things are bound to go wrong when you’re traveling. I have lost count of the things that have gone wrong for me; from getting dengue fever in Vietnam, to losing my passport in Thailand. When you travel on a budget, those things seem to happen more often. When this ceases to be fun, it might be time to invest in an upgrade.



I remember when I was in my 20s, and some weeks looked like I was drinking for Australia. There are years where I can count on one hand the number of alcohol free days I had. It got so bad my friends almost staged an intervention. Or they would have if they had sobered up for long enough. Every now and then though, I would go drink free for a day just to prove I could. When it started taking me two days to get over a hangover I decided it was time to cut back, and with that decision I also upgrade my travel stays. Ten years later, and I think the last hostel bar I was in was in Scotland in 2014. And that was only because I knew the bartender.


If you can’t turn your undies inside out and re-wear them, you’re too old for backpacking.



If you have ever pulled out a spreadsheet to map out your travel plans or  booked every hostel and every transfer and even a few meals weeks before your trip then maybe backpacking isn’t your thing. And if you’re this person, then maybe it never was.


You know the rule. On any given night, there is always a creepy old guy in every dorm in the the world. If there isn’t one in yours… Well, sorry.


Luxury Stays: Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve

Long term followers of my other blogs and my Twitter or Instagram feeds will know that while Australia is my place of birth and London is my second home, Africa owns my heart and soul. I fell in love with that diverse continent back in 2009 on my first trip to Zimbabwe and Mozambique and the love affair has continued over the years. As much as I love Africa as a whole, it took me several visits to actually like South Africa as a country.

SA is volatile, a country still finding its feet after years of racial discrimination and outbreaks of violence and xenophobia. Crime rates are high, and in some places they’re higher than the rest of Africa combined. It’s country of stunning mountain scenery, with a backdrop of tense bitterness experienced by its people. South Africans that I know who live in Australia tell me wild tales of assault, rape and murder. People who have never been ask me constantly what it is about Africa that keeps drawing me back, but people who have been know. It gets under your skin like no where else on Earth.


Recently, I was lucky enough to be escorted by Swagman Tours through some of the most beautiful spots in SA. We started in Cape Town and headed out along Cape Peninsula, hitting the Garden Route hard and fast before flying north to Kruger National Park. I was looking forward to this part of our itinerary the least. I had been before, and I wasn’t overly enthralled with it last time. In my subsequent visits I avoided it, marking it in my head as a tourist trap – a sprawling mass of land that was far too big for me to explore on my own and still have some understanding of what all the fuss is about.

It rings true today. Since my visit to Leopard Hills, in the western sector of renowned Sabi Sands private conservancy attached to Greater Kruger I’ve completely changed my tune on safari in Kruger – but only if it’s done right. And lucky for me, the team at Leopard Hills definitely know how to make your stay into a trip of a lifetime.

Sabi Sand Game Reserve comprises 10,000 hectares of incredibly diverse ecosystems where the Big 5 wander freely, and the ability to view them at close proximity and watch them in their natural environment and witness their normal behaviours is a high priority for the team at Leopard Hills. Situated on a rocky outcrop to maximise the magnificent views over the bushland and an active waterhole, the small lodge has only 8 glass-fronted suites, each complete with their own private pool and sundeck. The lodge facilities include an extensive library with internet access, a traditional Shangaan boma, a fully stocked wine cellar and a curio shop as well as a tastefully appointed restaurant with quality food and service from friendly staff. There is also a gym and spa with glass frontage to make the most of those game viewings while having a massage. Leopard Hills has understated luxury down to an art. The small touches from our housekeeping team made me feel so welcome, it was like being a part of their family. A family you never see, because I honestly did not even see my housekeeper. She came and went while I was out, tidying and leaving me little notes and restocking my Amarula so that I would have plenty there when I came back.


Now, while the rooms were beautiful and the bushland so accessible, what really impressed me was the staff. They remembered our names even though we stayed one night only, and our guide and tracker team were unbelievable. I’ve been on a  lot of safari in my time, and I’ve had some really incredible experiences in Africa. But at Leopard Hills, their knowledge and spotting abilities meant I got an in-depth understanding of how Sabi is different to those  conservancies in the northern part of Kruger, and indeed different to other parks I have visited in Kenya and Tanzania. I was able to quiz the guides on routines around the reserve, what happens when they find poachers, the different behaviours of even the smallest creatures – these are guides who genuinely love what they do and have a passion for sharing that with their guests.

In the two game drives I had with Reese (guide) and Congive (tracker) we managed to find all of the Big 5, including four different leopards. We were surrounded by elephant and witnessed a pride of lion with a buffalo kill. As much as these remarkable sightings thrilled me, I was also especially glad to find small lizards sunning themselves on boulders, chameleon hiding in the bushes late at night,  beautiful lilac breasted rollers, red beaked and black feathered drongos hiding in the cold mornings and many other birds, including eagles and owls.

Promise me, if you have the time and the budget – fit a stay at Leopard Hills into your African itinerary. You absolutely won’t be disappointed, this is one place I will guarantee it.

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Ubud’s Best Spa Retreats

Ok darlings, here it is. The ultimate spa retreat go-to guide for my favourite place in Bali. I invested a lot of time and it was super hard work to put this guide together, but I promise it was worth it 🙂

These days Ubud is the centre of alternative healing. From massage to reiki; from traditional balians to reflexology – the ability to heal oneself and find your centre is ridiculously easy in Ubud. I visited a LOT of spas during my last visit, and I did it all for you darlings.

Location: Jl. Raya Sanggingan

Located down a laneway is a pocket of tranquility known as Bali Botanica. It seems to just keep going on and on, definitely a property that is much bigger than it seems from the reception room. The staff are welcoming and exceedingly polite, the grounds are serene and nurturing. Bali Botanica is rated 8 of 176 wellness retreats in Ubud, and so it should be. I opted for the full day package, which included lunch at renowned restaurant Bridges. This is an expensive package, but I thought it was still good value for what I got out of the day. I started with a consult with the manager, where we selected oils and scents to fit with my ayeverdic profile. I was ushered into a change room and given a sarong to wear. From there I was taken to one of the most beautiful and tranquil treatment rooms that I have ever seen. I enjoyed a full body massage, scrub, chakra dara, hair spa, facial and lunch.

Bali Botanica treatment rooms

Bali Botanica treatment rooms

Lunch at Bridges

Lunch at Bridges


Fresh! Spa
Location: Jl. Dewisita, central Ubud

Fresh! is exactly that. It’s a new walk-in style spa, with small rooms and a hairdresser upstairs. The massage rooms are basic, with a simple table and curtain for  privacy. Not the best massage I have ever had though, my therapist didn’t listen to my preferences of strength, or where I felt I needed focused treatment. I visited twice, and on my first visit my pedicure was amazing. I sat and used the free WiFi while the girls got to work on my feet. When I came back the next day, they squeezed me in regardless of the problems they were having with the power. My massage was ok at best, but the scrub was AMAZING. There is a focus on natural products, and the chocolates and ginger tea at the end were very welcomed.


Pedicure lounges at Fresh! Spa

Taksu Healing Haven & Spa
Location: Jl. Goutama Sel., central Ubud

Taksu have definitely got their name right. Located right in the middle of Ubud, off Jl Hanoman, it is a pocket of heaven. Taksu offer all the normal spa services, but also offer some alternative healing remedies such as somalogy, traditional Chinese medicine, past life regression, infra-red and ozone therapies. They have parking on site, so if you have hired a driver for a day he can stay close by. You can also wander down to my favourite vegan café, Down to Earth, for a pre or mid therapy snack that you can be sure won’t disrupt the balance you’ve manage to acquire during your time at Taksu. Taksu are also one of the few spas in Ubud to have Western healers on hand, some of whom specialise in the more alternative therapies on offer.

Sang Spa
Location: Jl. Jembawan No. 13B

Definitely Bali’s top low cost spa and wellness centre, Sang Spa was founded by local Balinese man Ngurah Sudarma in 2008. I’ve been visiting Sang Spa 2 since it’s inception, and have never been disappointed. The staff are welcoming and polite, but have a wonderful sense of boundaries. What I love the most about Sang Spa is that it is a locally owned and operated brand, unlike most of the businesses across Bali that are Western owned but locally operated. An award-winning spa, they have grown quietly and unassumingly through referral business. Once you visit, you’ll understand why – because you’ll want to send all your friends there as well! Sang Spa offer a variety of therapies, drawing from the techniques found in Indonesian, Thai, Swedish and other schools of massage. Of their three locations, my favourite is the Sang Spa 2 – this is the location on Jl Jembawan. Sang Spa 3 is located on Jl Monkey Forest, which Sang Spa 1 was closed for renovations at time of writing.

DaLa Spa
Location: Alaya Resort | Jl. Raya Hanoman 

Now, normally I would recommend getting out of your hotel and finding an external spa for pricing reasons BUT the spa at Alaya Resort (just down the road from Yoga Barn) is actually unreal. Beautifully appointed treatment rooms, and wonderful packages – at a price. Book a Western spa, get a Western price point. There are actually three other locations for DaLa Spa, across Bali. Two are down in Kuta, and a second location will be opening when the new Alaya Jembawan Ubud opens in 2016. DaLa is another spa with an emphasis on locally made, all natural products so you know you’ll be getting quality. The therapists are well trained, and excel at all types of massage. You won’t be disappointed.


Image via Bali Spa Guide


Luxury Eats: POLLEN

Located in the Flower Dome at Singapore’s new Gardens by the Bay, POLLEN is more than an expensive meal out. It’s a holistic food experience, with unique gourmet offerings that had been thoughtfully laid out by head chef, Angelo Rosso.

Rosso has worked with such esteemed household names as Marco Pierre White, Heston Blumenthal and Alain Ducasse, and he brings this wealth of knowledge and indviduality to his work at POLLEN. There are elements of all three chefs to be tasted in the menu, but Blumenthal’s influence really shines through with the holistic sensory experience. Rosso is teamed up with general manager and renowned sommelier Amir Solay, who has one of the finest banks of wine knowledge I’ve ever seen.

The experience at POLLEN is very much a sit-back-and-let-us-pamper-you experience, and much of this is to be expected at a restaurant such as this. From the time we arrived (very early) I asked for little, but received much. They have mastered the art of understated service.


We had been walking through the Singaporean humidity, and the simulated rainforest that is the Cloud Forest prior to dinner. I was dressed for the heat, in a simple cotton dress and flat shoes. Inside the Flower Dome it is a cool 20C through the year, and while this is fine to walk around, while you’re sitting still and enjoying your dinner it can get cold. POLLEN anticipated this, and brought me a shawl and a small heater to place near my feet. To really cap this small tough off, the shawl matched my dress.


I’m not going to wax lyrical on the actual menu we ate, because it wasn’t even the food that impressed me the most. Menus change, but it’s the little touches you remember the most from an experience like this. I ate with my vegan best friend, and I am a meat avoider. It’s difficult for us to find restaurants at this high level that will not only alter a menu, but will be excited by the challenge. Each course that was brought to us was thoroughly explained, we were told exactly what was in it, how it was made and what portions of the share plates my vegan could and could not eat. A normal restaurant experience for us means a phone call ahead of time to explain his dietary requirements, and then on arrival he will be given one option for starter, and one for main. Usually the main is some variation on a veggie stack.


Not at POLLEN. We were given not one, but three choices for starter and two options for main. Vegan was happy, which meant I was happy.

I’ve had the opportunity to eat in some pretty fantastic places, and eat food cooked by more than a few celebrity chefs. I had very high expectations for POLLEN. Those expectations were smashed out of the ballpark. I only have great memories of this night, which means the price was absolutely worth it.

Find POLLEN in the Flower Dome at Gardens by the Bay, by the Marina in Singapore. Reservations are essential, and bring a shawl or dress warmly. The Flower Dome can be chilly.

EDIT: I have been asked if this is a sponsored post. Absolutely not. I paid for my meal at POLLEN, and no one asked me to give a good review. The staff and the food did this by themselves.